Rebuild, Refurbish and Upgrade the Ni-Cd battery packs in your power tools , cordless phones, remote control toys … any power pack with two or more cells. Upgrade the mA (mA = milliamp) of your original by as much as 40%. What does that mean? Or, what does that do for me? mA is the ‘quantity’ of power available (amperage) to do work. mA translates to hours of use (mAh or Milliamp hours) by dividing the mA by 1000. Therefore; 1500 mA is equal to 1.5 hours of use. 1500 mA is typical for most older Ni-Cd power packs. The charger should accept and charge up to 2100 mA (that equals 2.1 mAh or 2.1 hours). But that . Trying to force it to charge cells higher than 40% of the original mA would exceed the limit of its perimeters and will result in you spending more for cells that will never fully charge. Here’s the math: 1500mA x 40% = 600mA 1500mA + 600 = 2100mA Most new / replacement cells will recharge 300 to 500 times if properly charged, discharged and stored when not in use.
Ni-CD battery rebuild and upgrade Part1.wmv
Written by Tools on September 4th, 2010 in Power Tools.
Tags: Battery, Nicd, Part1.wmv, Rebuild, upgrade
@Resistoon Try a small amount of soldering flux.
@tchrisd Go to your local recycling center. Any Home Depot or Lowe’s is one. They’ll have a box to put old battery packs in. You should be able to take one from there. Also, do a Google search for local rechargeable battery recycling and pay a visit to as many as needed till you get what you want.
how can I get dead batteries to try and refurbish?
@Resistoon Good for you, Bro! I was hoping you wouldn’t give up. I mean you got so far into it … why quit, right?
Who cares about pretty. I’m no artist … I’m a fix-it guy. I just need it to work.
Hey, try plastic wrap next time. The stuff we use in the kitchen, you know? Just pull out enough to wrap the pack one and a half times … then fold it long-ways so it’s doubled up but none of the wrap will drape over the top or bottom. The wrap it up, pop that bad boy in and charge it. Cool?
@phxexaminer I got a tiny burn on my Oak kitchen table, but sanded it out easily. Okay so I decided to get back in there and at least finish this one battery pack. It doesn’t look pretty but I got it done! It was kind of a tight fit because I used pipe tape to wrap the pack.
Maybe I will actually attempt the other battery pack now that I know not what to do.
@Resistoon Sorry you had difficulty. I don’t know what to say, Bro. I’ve literally done 22 battery paks and the only thing I ever got was a few sparks when the cell tabs touched accidentally.
But …
As with all projects and fixes – there is a risk of FUBAR.
You burned your workbench table top? Or .. like a dinning room table top?
@phxexaminer Just got around to trying to rebuilt my drill battery pack and am having issues. Harder to do than it looks and some of the batteries touched their contacts burning my table. This is not working out as I had hoped and I am giving up. Anyone want to buy a bunch of 2200 mAh Sub-C batteries?
I finally got around to trying this battery rebuild thing and found it much harder to do than I had thought. I am pretty good at soldering but still this was very difficult and I ended up burning my table top, as one of the batteries shorted itself out when the contacts touched. Now I have a bunch of new Sub-C batteries for nothing.
@rainmechanic I did the same thing, bro. – But, I know I’ll rebuild them in less than a year – using 2600 mAh cells. Pro’s and Con’s = 1500 is 1.5 working hours. 2600 is 2.6 working hours. Performance (torque) towards the end of the cycle will be different as well. Store bought, all you do is charge ‘em up – no labor. Rebuild is more involved, of course. If you feel good about it, then you DID good, brother. No worries.
I just picked up TWO Pack Ryobi 18v + one batteries at Home Depot for 59.00 dollars for the pair… That comes to 30 dollars per battery.. Your response to another commenter said anything under 35 dollars for 14 2600 mah sub C batteries is a deal….. Basically what im wondering is it worth it for me to bother rebuilding Ryobi 18v batteries?…. Im guessing the ones i bought only contain 1500mah sub C’s.. are the 2100mah sub C’s performance advantage worth the effort???
@Resistoon Absolutely! Remember when you take apart the old one to keep any components that are in the circuit – you may not have any – but if you do, solder it in the same location for your rebuild.
Good luck, Bro. Let me know how it turns out – or if you have any more questions.
@phxexaminer I found 2200 mAh sub-C batteries. Can I use them for my 16.8 volt Craftsman drill?
@Resistoon – The same Sub-C, 1.2 volt cells I use on the video. Trust me, manufacturers do NOT pay more than they need for cells to put in products. Sub-C are the most popular and most readily available, making them the cheapest to obtain. Especially when tool-makers purchase in bulk. You can find them at Ebay, or do a Google search of “sub-C” and the mA you want. (40% higher than the original) You need 14 of them. Anything under $35 total for 2000 to 2600 mA is a deal.
What size are in my Craftsman 16.8 volt drill battery pack and where can I get the replacement batteries?
I’m replacing the batteries in my Makita 4.5V drill. In the crown, where the last 2 batteries go, there are 2 connections to a thermister and 2 connections to ?, which in turn are connected internally to the drill. I understand the thermister connection, but what are the other 2 wires connected to? In my new battery pack, those 2 wires go to a flat disk about the size of a BB. In the old drill pack. Is it possible for me to contact you by phone? Thanks.
I find all the tips I learn carry over and help in future projects. Same for you? Thanks. P.T. is the ultimate dog. Kind and playful, loyal, obedient and extremely protective of me and mine. They sell the rolls at Autozone. Brand name: Conduct-tite, made by Dorman. 8-foot rolls in Red for 20-18 gauge and blue for 16-14 gauge wire. I think around 4 or 5 bucks each. Good Luck, Bro
Thanks Jim. The size is: (L=length, D=Diameter) L-42.9 mm, D-22.2 mm or 1&11/16×7/8 inches. Smaller compared to regular C battery. Sub-C also has a 4/5 & 3/5 sizes, used mainly in cordless screwdrivers like the B&D 6volt. Are you in the S.W. desert, Irish Jim? Phoenix? I guess I’m the ‘Dego’ in the desert, then
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the tip about liquid paper. Marking terminals is important — a whole lot less confusing. Good-looking golden. Again, thank you. PS — what was the source of your roll of shrink-to-fit tubing?
I have a Makita 14.4Volt battery with 11 Ni-Cd cells in it. What is the physical size of the sub-C? Thanks. Excellent presentation. Thank you. Jim
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